I am participating in the A to Z 2012 blog challenge throughout April. My theme is a genealogical travelogue or a travel genealogue (I’m not sure which). Today we have a guest post from Mr Cassmob on Popondetta, a place I’ve never visited. I divert into a sort of pathetic poetry on Port Moresby, and tell of tragedy on Peel Island.
P is for POPONDETTA (Papua New Guinea)
This guest post is brought to you by Mr Cassmob who lived in Popondetta as a small boy.
Popondetta, capital of the Oro Province of Paua New Guinea, sits on the north Papuan plains, between Buna and Gona on the coast and Kokoda in the mountains; the area was the scene of vicious fighting when the Japanese invaded in the Second World War. In 1953, when Mr Cassmob’s parents, both teachers, arrived with their two small children, Popondetta was a very small town being established as the new administrative headquarters of the Northern District. Nearby Mt Lamington had erupted in January 1951, killing about 5,000 people and destroying the previous township at Higaturu.
Our first house in Popondetta had a coconut frond thatched roof, woven pit-pit (local cane/grass) walls and split bamboo floor, shutters, palm rats and a carpet snake in the rafters, and a long-drop toilet or thunder-box outside the back door. We thought we were the bee’s knees when we moved into our third house, a brand-new wooden high-set with louvres, internal doors, and an inside flush toilet attached to a septic tank. On the concrete slab under the house – very much our outdoor living area – Mum and Dad installed a cane-furniture bar complete with illuminated sign that said “Cass Bar”. For those who remember 1950s movies about Morocco, they greatly enjoyed saying ”Come wiz me to ze Cass Bar”.
I have happy memories of three years in Popondetta. It was, quite clearly, a colonial experience, but children could go anywhere in town, spending all day at the pool until dark drove us home; seeing flying foxes in columns half a kilometre wide and stretching from horizon to horizon pouring out of the jungle at dusk; checking Mt Lamington every morning to see if it was still smoking – if not, it might be trouble! Officially starting school flowed naturally from home because our mother was our teacher. The air link to Port Moresby (no roads) was through the Kokoda Gap in the Owen Stanley Ranges in a war-service Avro Anson flown by Papuan Air Transport. The Dutch pilot completed his flight preparations by walking out onto the tarmac, squinting at the clouds over the ranges and saying “Looks OK. We’ll have a go.”
I was saddened this morning to look at Popondetta on Google and see reports of raskol gangs, gambling, cyclone damage – in short, a town in collapse with no great reason for anyone to go there. Here are some recent insights into Popondetta life these days: Stranded in Popondetta and SteveinPNG (unbelievable prices for betel nut).
P is for PORT MORESBY (PNG)
Poetry isn’t normally my thing, but for a change of pace I thought I’d present my impressions of (Port) Moresby in a different way.
MEMORIES OF MORESBY
Bereft of family and friends
arriving at Jacksons Airport
humid heat slams like a truck
ground staff in lap-laps
a sea of different faces.
People sit around town
lime bags at their feet
mixed with betel nut to chew
mouths turn bright red with
blood-red globs of spit.
Cathedral with indigenous art
becomes my refuge
a bastion of familiarity
flee, fly to Alotau and
our new home.
Returning to Moresby years later
we learn its other faces
children, jobs, a different life
new friends, old friends
Gerehu greetings.
Ela Beach swimming, picnics
take the dog, leave the cat
adventures at Variarata
family photos on a fence.
At Christmas in Moresby
Santa arrives by plane or fire engine
Gerehuligans gather together,
a new tradition.
Independence for PNG arrives at last
watch the visitors, princes and chiefs
lower the old flag, raise the new,
commemorate our contribution
celebrate the start of a new country.
P is for PEEL ISLAND (Queensland)
It is late 1876 and a husband, his young wife and infant child set forth on the 869 ton Woodlark for the long voyage to Queensland. He is bred to the sea, but she is not. The voyage passes uneventfully thanks to the care and attention paid to the emigrants, and the cleanliness of their persons, berths and clothes[i]. The ship’s arrival in Moreton Bay is announced by the newspapers in January 1877. Among the 295 immigrants on board is a suspected case of enteric fever, also known as typhoid fever. The ship is not granted pratique and the immigrants and other passengers are detained while those who are ill are placed in quarantine.
After a week most of the passengers were brought up to Brisbane but the case of a young woman remained doubtful. Six weeks later the young woman dies on Peel Island, in quarantine, but not of an infectious illness. The question has to be asked whether if she had been brought into the hospital she might have survived. There is some consolation in knowing her husband was with her throughout but her younger brother had probably been sent ashore previously. How did they write to tell her father the terrible news of his daughter’s death?
Janet Melvin nee Peterkin was barely 22 years old and she was my great-grandfather’s first wife.
For today’s A to Z challenge link, why not pop over to Stephen Tremp’s intriguing posts on astrological matters or Like a bump on a blog on blogging tips.
A feisty blog from someone living in PNG now is A Goddess in the Jungle, interesting insights into today’s expat lifestyle.
[i] Letter to the Editor, The Brisbane Courier, 25 January 1877, page 3.
Family history across the seas 
Wow – lovely post and terrific images. My father Ian Ferrier designed the Moresby Cathedral. He spent a lot of time in PNG and would bring home wonderful images (slide shows – i must see where those slides are now), stories and artifacts. Thanks for posting this great image of the cathedral.
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I’m glad you enjoyed it. I have fond memories of the Cathedral being one of the first places I ever visited in PNG and despite the different style I felt at home. How interesting that your father designed it. Agreed you should find the photos 😉
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